Summer in Moldova: should the party stop?, by Glen Johnson (Le Monde diplomatique
Inot In the overgrown garden of a dacha in a small town in Moldova, young people sit on blankets or lie in hammocks sipping sangria as local electronic band Murmur de Izvar perform the evening’s final set. When the breakbeats stop, it’s arms and legs that are agitated, unleashed movements under a setting sun. Of course, in the relatively rural town of Cricova, the event — “ZeDacha: On the Ground” — will have to end at 10 p.m.
But no matter, a hardcore techno concert will start in a few hours 15 km away in the heart of the underground scene in the capital Chișinău. “It’s crazy,” says local rapper Traian. “There are so many events and people doing cool things.”
Participants nibble on skewers of cottage cheese, cherry tomatoes and cucumber, and drink homemade lemonade. Beeches and cherry trees rustle in the breeze. The garden is all lilac and iris, chamomile and magnolia. Nearby, a troop of weapon enthusiasts emerge in medieval battle gear and shoot arrows and assault each other with swords.
The Moldovan alternative scene has a sense of movement, after years on life support. “People have been waiting and waiting,” says Murmur de Izvar member Feodor Cantir, “and now it’s exploded.” The country, emerging from prolonged periods of Covid-19 restrictions, has seen young people organize events on a scale never seen before. This despite the proximity of the war next door in Ukraine, which Moldovans resent keenly.
Being introduced to electronic music was a watershed moment. Awareness of cultural contrast can turn verbal stories into real actions
There is cautious optimism. Two prominent oligarchs – widely believed to be behind the theft of a billion dollars from Moldovan banks in 2014 and the total debasement of an already rotten political system – have been driven into hiding abroad. The government, led by center-right prime minister Natalia Gavrilița and neoliberal technocrat president Maia Sandu, is relatively (…)
Full article: 1,767 words.